Dave's Cars Three Carb "Stock" Air Cleaner Courtesey of Richard Seaton home

click to enlarge   Rear Plate 1. Obtain two like air boxes from either an early TR250 or TR6, or two from a latter model TR6. The reason for obtaining two of the same (early or late models) is that the mounting locations of the box to the carburetors were shifted from being offset from the rear to the front. You can see this by looking at the box and seeing that the hole orientation is not center relative to the filter. 2. Mount Richard Good’s triple intake per instructions to head, then the carburetors. 3. On the stock intake (Fig 1A) measure the center-to-center distance between the inner most carburetor mount studs, which should be 6 7/8”. Then on the triple intake measure the center-to-center distance of the middle and rear carburetors, which should be 4 5/8”. Fig 2A 4. Subtract the smaller from number from the larger to come up with the amount to remove from the middle of one of the rear covers (Fig 2A). This amount being 1 13/16”. 5. When preparing to remove material from the center, measure 7 ½” from the rear of the cover and scribe with a utility knife at “A”. Using a square along the top edge will help to get a true line. Lay masking tape at the edge of scribe line to aid in cutting metal with cutoff wheel. Then scribe 1 13/16” from “A” a parallel line which will be “B”. Cut at “A”, but not “B” yet. 6. Install the middle section on the corresponding middle carburetor and align the holes and tighten three bolts. Mount the rear plate to the rear carburetor, while checking alignment of the holes. Check to make sure cut mark “B” doesn’t come up shy, if so remark and cut. Then trim to leave about 1/16” gap between “A” and “B”, this is gap will be filled in by mig welding. Fig 3A 7. Cut and remove rear section of other rear plate as in Fig 3A. The right side is to overlap the middle carburetor plate. Once it is cut install three backer plates and check that all three are flush to a straight edge along the bottom edge. Try to get the holes to the carburetors as centered as possible. Figs 4A and 5A 8. Scribe the center plate where the front overlaps the middle (Fig 4A). Remove middle and front plate, apply masking tape at scribe mark, and then cut. 9. Reinstall middle and front plate and trim if needed to achieve a small 1/16” gap. Align all three pieces with a straight edge along the bottom. 10. Cover carburetors with aluminum foil and stuff foil in throats. This is to keep the sparks from marking up the aluminum. Note: If gas is in the carburetors, clamp seams tightly and remove before welding. Clamp plates as needed to get the edges flush then tack weld seams. 11. Remove the rear plate assembly then weld up the seams, slowly to keep metal from warping. You might try clamping the plate to ¼” metal to disperse the heat and reduce warping. If is does warp a hammer and dolly can straighten it. Fig 5A is what your working toward. 12. Grind welds flush, then sand with 80 grit, then 120 grit. Fig 1B Front Cover With the front cover you will proceed as with the rear plate. There will be a few spots where particular care must be taken as not to remove too much material. 1. Remove 1 13/16” material from the middle of the front cover (Fig1B) as done in step 5 earlier, but there is no need to measure 7 ½” from the edge of the air box. Scribe then mask off area to be removed. Cut at point “A”. 2. Install the rear backing plate then the front rear cover. Scribe where the cut edge of the installed cover meets the rear plate. Fig 2B 3. This is for the middle carburetor with the gray shaded area to be removed. Cut off at the gray line of the front cover (Fig 2B) starting at either point “A”. This is where the front cover starts to curve in along the sides. It is necessary to stay slightly to the left of this point so that the front piece can be welded on before the box starts to curve. Apply tape to this line (Fig #B) and cut to the outside edge of the tape. Fig 4B 4. Once the gray area has been removed remove the rear of the front cover and install the center section. Check the scribe mark on the rear plate made in step two. See if it corresponds to the mark on the center section of the front cover. You don’t want to come up shy here. Ideally it will be a little big. Install the rear cover to double check. Remark the center section if needed then cut at the scribe line. Fig 4B is what you are trying to achieve. Figs 5B and 6B 7. Once the fit is acceptable proceed with tack welding (Fig 7B). Then completely weld the seams. Fig 8B 8. Notice the indentions on either side of the center carburetor. These triangular sections are cut out and new pieces are fitted flush (Fig 8B). Fig 9B 9. Once the triangles have been tack welded, finish welding the seams. 10. The last stage is to grind, grind, grind, those welds flush. Some work with a dolly and hammer may be necessary to take care of any warping. Then sand any blemishes down. How far you go with this depends on the type of finish that will be applied as bondo can be applied to smooth it out. I choose powder coat, so it needed to be blemish free. 11. This air box will restrict air, so I added three 1 3/8”x 2 ½” rectangular openings along the bottom for more air. One each to the left and right of the middle carburetor and one to the curve along lower edge behind the rear one. Finished Product It’s a very tight fit to the inner fender, but it makes it, just barely!   This is the result you are striving for! Lots of sanding, primer, and paint to give you this!   Performance with class! I think it looks much better than the air intake that Goodparts sells - that's just too 21st century!!!!            our sponsor We do Web sites! This site is a member of WebRing. To browse visit Here.

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