Dave's Cars

1962 Triumph TR3B


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I think its safe to say "Don't cruise craigslist. It happened again. I've got another vehicle! And I didn't save the ad. It's already gone, so I can't post it. But it didn't have any pictures; just Triumph TR3 for sale. No title.
No dents in the front
Original or reproduction hub caps. will be interesting to see how it cleans up
Some paint issues
Door and rocker panel
Sitting on the trailer for now
Couple chips off the fender
Looks like a cheap paint job.
all in all the paint is not too horrible.
Engine compartment looks almost ready to go!
Here is the plate - its a late 3B
Another engine shot
Trunk looks good, and there's some sort of weird bungee cord in there, too
Here is the plate its wearing.
Came with Alabama plates and a manual.
This car has been restored
The dash and instruments look ok to me
hoodsticks or ok and the hoodstick cover is back there. Rear area is just fine
This is what it looks like under the rug
Sills ok both sides!
Sills are solid
Interior just needs cleaning
Passenger footwell
Driver side interior - still nice - maybe new pedal pads?
badly cracked paint around the tail lights
ordered speedbleeders for the car today (from www.speedbleeder.com). These are the ones:
  • Front……SB3824HD
  • Rear…….SB3824HD
  • Clutch….SB3824
Problem: likely due to the starter motor. So it has to come out. The nut holding the cable is a strange size - likely whitworth. A 14 mm wrench was close enough in a very close space. The two 9/16 bolts weren't too hard.
Then the trick is how to actually get it out of there. Two suggestions:
  • remove the nuts that hold the carbs, put a towel on top of the motor,and roll the carbs up there without disconnecting the choke cable or anylinkage other the the lead arm.
  • Undo the front connection of that (choke) rod that connects the jets and let it drop down. That also frees the choke cable. The connecting fuel line and air cleaners also need to be removed.
Switching positive ground to negative - here is one instruction:

A slightly easier method of polarizing the generator is to just disconnect the wire from the 'F' terminal on the control box (battery installed, ignition off) and brush the disconnected wire against the 'A' terminal. You'll get some small sparks, but nothing major. Then reconnect the wire to the 'F' terminal and go on.

VTR also has instructions.
This is the old, non working starter which I took out.
This is the new one they sent me first. It did not work properly - sounded like it was not disengaging when the engine started. As it turns out, its the starter gear. If you compare it with the previous picture, you can see that the gear is half the size on the old one. So they are rebuilding the old one for me and I sent this one back. Fortunately I had a TR4 in the garage and it donated a starter, which worked fine, and also had the short gear.
Brakes. Yes, they had to come out. This one in particular was locking up. So both front calipers were sent out to be rebuilt. Now, if you are very observant, you will notice that the brake hose is actually in the hole for the bleed screw, and vica versa. In retrospect, this may have been the problem.
Brake caliper before rebuilding.
I pumped out as much old gas from the tank as I could, but there was still some left. After cleaning out the fuel lines the whole way, I managed to get it to run just on starter fluid. I had disconnected the fuel line to the carbs because I didn't want any of that crap to flow into the carbs.

Getting it to run in short bursts, I saw gas flow from the fuel pump out of the open fuel line, so I figured the fuel pump did in fact work (which I had not expected). So I put some new gas and a couple bottles of carb cleaner in the gas tank, started it up, and let it run for a few minutes.

One of my cautions is that I will run a "new" engine for just a few minutes and then shut it off, and look around for leaking fluids. The first time I started up an engine that had actually just been sitting for many months I did not realize the water plug had been removed. Warped the aluminum head because I did not notice the puddle under it.
see this link

Well done this time as well - the fuel pump was leaking quite a bit. Fortunately, due to a previous misadventure I had a new-in-box fuel pump.

As so often happens, a long weekend and busy time at work intervened so it was a few weeks before I was able to replace the fuel pump. The car would not run; would not pump gas. I figured bad pump, made a new cork gasket for the old pump (at the sediment bowl), and put it back in. I'm getting good at this, btw. Still would not run.

A good time to have dinner and think about things. And get a good nights sleep. Next day I put in my electric fuel pump - this has never let me down; I always keep it around; it always works for me when other pumps fail.

I put it in: no gas and no run.

Time to start checking the lines. I'm getting gas from the tank, but nothing out the business end. I disconnect lines one at a time and the pump does indeed work. But there is no gas in the front carb fuel bowl. I check the carb and the little thingee that moves up and down and lets gas in is stuck. Remember the old gas? Whoops. I fix that and put gas in the fuel bowl. Then I check the second carb - same thing. Hook things back up and it runs, still on the electric fuel pump.

Finally I removed the electric fuel pump and reconnect the old one with the new gasket. Car runs just fine.
Here is the new disk caliper in, bled, and ready to go.
I finally drove the car!!! First around the block, then a couple times around a larger circle, checked the temp - seemed to be ok. Drove off to get gas and the car was blowing steam. Added half a gallon and drove home. My guess is the thermostat needs to be replaced.
Before driving it, i put over a quart of oil in the diffy. Next morning it was all on the floor. Checked it out and it appears I need a new front seal on the diffy. This is new territory for me! Here is the advice that i received via email on changing the seal
    Changing Front Oil Seal
  • Use some fine abrasive cloth to clean up the surface of the flange where the
  • seal rides, then examine it carefully.
  • If there is a dark line that you
  • cannot polish away, consider replacing the flange or installing a
  • SpeediSleeve.
  • Otherwise the new seal may leak just as badly as the old one.
  • Grease the seal & flange before installation.
  • Good time to inspect the U-joint.
  • Mark the nut/pinion relationship with a scribe or center punch before removal. That way, you dont have to torque and makes cotter key replacement easy.
  • I drilled the seal and inserted a screw and used my dent puller to remove.
We replaced the seal. marked it first, then used a hammer and screwdriver to pry it out. Done deal!!!! And replaced the gasket on the differential as well.
Checked the thermostat in boiling water. it opened like it should. Tried a new radiator cap - this is the correct part from NAPA. Worked great! Flushed the system anyway, then added some anti freeze. Running great now!
The car is running fine; the gauges work, and this car is off to a new home.
A good angle, a good picture.
Goodbye! Sold on ebay, and off to its new home
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