Dave's Cars

1967 Datsun 1600 Roadster "FairLady"

My Engine Removal Step by Step

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The instructions for this were taken from Dean Apostal's Datsun Sports Parts Listing, Repair & Service Manual for Models SPL311 and SRL311. Credit is also due to Scott Sheeler and Don Morrell. Don Morrell is the copyright holder.
Datsun Roadster Parts can be reached at www.datsunparts.com or 818-363-2015.
5/22/2005 Here is the car on a smooth, level surface, ready to go. Lots of space around it. Remember: THINK SAFETY!!!!!

Also, I don't know the history of this car; the dpo was on his way to "customizing" it, removing the chrome, tail lights, etc, before he lost interest and I picked it up. So if you spot something that's not correct, let me know! Of course, I may or may not change it - my goal is to create a really fun driver without spending a gazillion dollars on it. I did that with my TR3, and it's really not worth it!
As you can see, the hood is already off. It's stored in a safe place for when we will put it back on.
Here is what it looked like before I dug into it!
I drained the cooling system by opening the valve in the bottom of the radiator. I'm collecting the outflow since this stuff is not environmentally friendly and is also slippery. Don't want my dog to find it!

This didn't work very well - OK, I'm not that patient. This could have taken days. So I pried open the lower hose and made some progress!
Here I've got the fan shroud off and hanging on top of the fan.
While I'm at it, I'm pulling the radiator and have it checked out; maybe recored, and replace the hoses. Since these hoses are nla, I'm going to try a favorite trick - take the old one to O'Reilly's (best auto parts store in Dallas!) and ask them to see how close they can get. The top one leaks - I can see it, so it's time to refresh everything!
Now the battery, cables, and tray all come out. This would be a good time to recharge it!
Here is the battery tray support bracket. Two bolts and out it comes. This may not be stock; there are also two screws holding it down. But it's out! Everything carefully photographed, packaged, and labeled!
I don't know what this grease covered thing is. It's down in the front, in the engine compartment, on the passenger side.
This is a ground connection from the wiring harness. Documented, removed, and labeled!
Good documented shot of the alternator, showing wires and connections. I then removed it. I may have it rebuilt, cleaned up, etc.
This is part of the bolt/washer assembly holding the alternator on. I have to ask: is this multiple washer setup normal??? I doubt it!
Now it's time to pull out those tie on labels I got at Office Depot. Label where all the wiring goes! Ignition coil to distributor, oil pressure sender, ground wires, etc.
More remove and label, remove and label.
Distributor. Pull some wires, label, etc. The tach cable is already disconnected. Yeah, something in this chain of command doesn't work. While I've got this stuff out I'll try to solve that one. I may just send both the speedo and the tach to MoMa in Arizona and have them rebuild them. Plus a unit from my MG.
Heater hoses. I removed one, but couldn't get the other one off very easily, so I cut it. I'm going to replace all the hoses anyway!
Then pull the choke cables and the accelerator cables. I have new a new choke cable which will go in during reassembly.

Although I don't have a picture to add, I now have all the upper stuff done. Removing the engine mount bolts was the worst! Next few days I will jack up the front and remove the oil, tranny oil, clutch, and a few others. Then it's get out the engine hoist!!!!!

Here's a handy hint from Phillip Hall - remove the front stabilizer bars, horns, etc., to minimize the angle you have to pull the engine out. I'm planning on it. I'm also planning on taking the front wheels off and putting the car down as low as possible, probably on wood blocks or something.
5/28/2005

The shift boot and console cover need to be removed.

It was at this point that Jim M came over to help. Special thanks, Jim!!! I couldn't have done it without you!!!!!
This is a tricky one - use a thick piece of rubber (like from a body washer!), vice-grips, and a box end rachet wrench with a hinged end. Otherwise, good luck getting to this bolt, which is on the bottom of the shift lever.
Take off the horns - this is a good time to clean them up, and get all the wiring out of the way.
This came off the firewall. I'm thinking its a good time to replace this, too!
Two more little electical items. This stuff is almost 40 years old - replace them and the fuse box, too.
This is the clutch slave cylinder. Unbolt the two bolts, replace them back where they came out, and tie it up somewhere so it does not get damaged.
Ground strap for the starter motor, etc. Remove the two bolts - hope you have small fingers - one on each end, clean it up, bag, and store. If it is at all frayed or damaged, replace it!
This is the drive shaft end at the differential. These bolts are really hard to get to - only an open end wrench will fit, and if they are at all rusted in, use plenty of PB Blaster, and, oh yeah, vice grips! Then replace them with grade 8 bolts!
The BIG moment!!!! Pulling the engine!!!! Very kewl!!!! This baby is out!!! Next step, clean it up, replace the clutch, and stuff it back in!!!!
And here it is, sitting on a rolling stand, ready to be cleaned up, then a new clutch, and reinstall.
7/30/2005 It's Clutch time!!!! I've spent a lot of time cleaning the engine and tranny, and now it's time to DIVE IN!!!
Here we go! Note the starter motor. It's the first to go!
These are the four bolts, plus the starter motor bolt, that hold the tranny in. Does that worry you just a little?????
With the bolts out, you can slide the tranny away from the engine. Here it is, beginning the separation. I imagine the re-entry is harder!!!!
This is the old clutch, facing out from the engine. Lots more bolts to take out!
Here's the new part, waiting to be put in.
The clutch plate etc. has been removed. This is the flywheel. It's coming out, too, so I can replace that little brass bearing.
This is looking into the tranny. That round bearing thing has to come out. The challenge here is to get it out!!!!
Flywheel off, ready to remove the bearing.
These are the two new bearings ready to go in. The challenge, of course, is to get the old ones out!!!!!
Recommendations I received from the Roadster List: The bigger bearing (the throwout bearing) all you have to do is pull on that fork right about where you see that bumpon the fork arm? There is a wire holding it in there and it will release with no problems. Once you get it off the fork, then you'll still have to press the old bearing off of the collar and press the new bearing on there.

I have heard there is a way to press that other bearing out, but I've always done the chisel method, which is a royal pain, especially when you scar up the inside of that hole. There is supposed to be a way to remove it with grease and pressure, but I never could get it to work correctly. I know that it was mentioned earlier this year though, so will check throught the archives for it!

The big one is the throwout bearing. The stamped steel arm is snap-fit onto a ball pivot. You just have to yank the stamped steel arm off the ball then the throwout bearing will slide off. The other is the brass pilot bushing. It is pretty soft. You may be able to cut it in half with a small chisel and hammer. The new one can be pressed in with an identical sized socket and a hammer. Be careful to not damage the new pilot bushing while driving it in with the socket.

One way to get the pilot bushing out is to get a dowel that is just narrower than the diameter of the hole inside the bushing, then pack the bushing cavity full of grease (trust me) and then tap the dowel into the hole. The dowel will displace the grease behind the bushing and the force will thrust the bushing outwards. I've seen this trick work.
Sorry to debunk any myths. This is the easiest way to do it. Two whacks and it was out. No problem. Unfortunately, the new bearing doesn't want to go in.
This is how the throwout bearing gets removed. Simple.
Here's the flywheel. Note the symmetrical ?? marks on the wheel. I'm going to get it resurfaced.
WOOHOOO!!!! The new clutch is back in; everything came together! The best hint (which came in too late!) was to put the pilot bearing in the freezer for a couple hours before installing. I bet it would have just slid right in!!! Ah, well. Now just waiting on the frame to get done (brakes, bearings, and wheel studs) so we can put this baby back together and be dangerous on the road!!!!!
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